The Day The General Died

The great split that carves through Chilean society is laid bare and brought to the surface in the documentary La Muerte de Pinochet (The Death of Pinochet), a film that shows the many reactions to the news of the general's death at 91 years old on 10th December 2006. From the crowds of pinochetistas who carried out a raucous vigilance outside the hospital where the old man lay dying to the spontaneous carnival that erupted on the Alameda to celebrate his death, the film portrays the various emotions unleashed that day and as such serves as a social portrait of the polarising effect that Pinochet continues to have to this day.

To many Pinochet was the brutal dictator who sewed terror and acquiescence throughout the population with repression and brutality, yet there is a sector of the Chilean populace which sees the dictator in a different light: namely as the leader who saved Chile from Marxism and heralded in an era of growth that today sees Chile as one of Latin America's strongest economies. It remains a topic of furious contention in Chile, a country where Pinochet is not a taboo topic as with Franco in Spain. Those who supported the dictatorship and felt the murder and torture of so many thousands of people was a price worth paying for economic development often remain unrepentant  in their attitudes.

The fanaticism of the Pinochetistas as they pay homage outside the hospital in Santiago where Pinochet takes his last breaths comes as a shock but highlights the quasi-idol status in which many revered him. Shouting and singing, there is a relentless zeal to the crowd, made up of young and old, and as death becomes inevitable an intense delirium envelops the throng, with a middle-aged woman screaming into the camera of her loyalty to the general. As one of the featured Chileans in the film,. she says she was put out of business, selling flowers in the Plaza de Armas, by the democratic government which closed her down due to her support for the regime. Her impassioned devotion on the pavement outside the hospital reaches almost hysterical proportions, highlighting the spell that Pinochet cast over his followers.

The other wild reaction to the death is seen on the Alameda by Plaza Italia as thousands of people take to the streets in a carnival atmosphere of jubilant celebration. With singing, dancing, leaping about and drinking the party takes on epic proportions and the revelers are again made up of various ages. These are raucous scenes although its hard to say if the presence of a camera encourages people, the majority of whom appear inebriated, to act over the top.

This is a film that, by allowing both sides a roughly equal amount of screen time, can claim to be offering an objective look at this heady day, yet I'm not so sure. Why, for example, does the film only focus on these groups? We see the loyal pinochetistas in a state of mourning that manifests itself in eccentric fanaticism and we see drunken men shoving and bellowing in disorderly ways as they party hard. I realise these two opposing groups probably make more watchable subjects for the film but I doubt they are representative of the general population on that day. What about the surely many millions of Chileans who would have gone about things in more refined ways? For example, the minority pinochetistas who would have grieved in private or those who rather than celebrate chaotically would have felt relief that a dark chapter in Chile's history was seemingly finally over. These people who must have existed and I suspect who formed the silent majority of Chileans are absent from the film, which gives the impression that the country witnessed two very contrasting reactions. It portrays Chilean society in a black and white context, while ignoring the vast grey area in between these two poles.

One other thing that I felt while watching this thing was this: was the death of Pinochet really something to celebrate even to the victims of torture or the families of the thousands of dead? When he passed away peacefully in his own bed, the final opportunity to gain justice for the atrocities of the dictatorship also went to the grave. It ensured that, while there have been numerous convictions over the abuses, the tyrant who lorded over the years of death and terror escaped justice until the very end. The death of General Pinochet granted him the eternal freedom that so many Chileans were denied under military rule. And, for me, that was and remains a tragedy for all those who were affected by the dictatorship. The day the general died was not only a sad day for his followers but also for those who he brutalised and oppressed for so long. In this sense the celebrations seem ill-suited to the day.

Electrodomésticos

(This is an article I wrote recently about a new Chilean documentary film entitled Electrodómesticos: El Frio Misterio which focuses on the Chilean music scene in the 1980s, a time obviously not too well documented thanks to the severe military oppression that enveloped the country back then. Electrodómesticos were one of the main bands back then and I've managed to catch them live a couple of times recently. Obviously they're older, but the music sounds modern and pulses with originality and scope. The musicians are very adept and each of the four members seems to play an equally important role within the group dynamic. Anyway, here's the article I wrote and some videos.)

In the 1980s Chilean society lived under the imposing shadow of military rule and nowhere was this more apparent than in the cultural vacuum that enveloped the country as thousands of musicians, artists, writers, and so on lived abroad in exile. But in spite of this creative exodus a generational sub group of young people emerged into the Santiago underground and developed an alternative scene of musical resistance that, out of sight and mind to most people, provided a crucial release for the frustrations of Chile’s repressed youth.

            It is this backdrop which provides the opening scenes of Electrodomésticos: El Frio Misterio, a documentary focussing on this rebellious movement and its main participants. Formed in Santiago in 1984, Electrodomésticos were key players in the establishment of the underground scene, taking direction from the British punk movement and utilising experimental sound effects. Combined with influences as diverse as Led Zeppelin, Talking Heads and Kraftwerk, the band went on to forge a musical legacy that today sees them regarded as one of the most important Chilean rock bands of the last thirty years.

The film, directed by Sergio Castro San Martin, tracks the origins of the scene in the frenetic atmospheres of clandestine galpons in Santiago such as Matucana 19 and Off Bellavista. The intensity of these venues is immediately apparent in the pulsating energy that surges through both crowd and musicians. The ropey quality of old archive footage, rather than detract from the film, give a raw authenticity that portrays a hitherto largely-unseen side of eighties Chile.

One of the key lines sums up the reality of the time: ‘Pinochet existed but we invented our own reality’. With these low-key gigs the only available escape from the cultural suppression in which young people were trapped, the scene took on a far deeper significance than simply another musical fad. For many young Chileans, this was when they lived.  

Charting the band from its origins through to the present day, the film looks at the paths taken by principal members Carlos Cabezas (guitar and vocals) and Silvio Paredes (bass). Electrodomésticos broke up in 1991 as Cabezas went on to release numerous solo albums while Paredes formed seminal electro-group Los Mismos, before a short-lived reunion in the early noughties. With contributions by numerous friends and associates of the band, it is as much a cultural history of the period as a typical band documentary.          

El Frio Misterio provides a compelling look at a band who surely would have gained more widespread acclaim had they not been constricted by the circumstances of the time. For those unfamiliar with the group, this is still an absorbing film, as the music, the sweeping landscape shots, and the socio-political commentaries resonate loudly of creativity and solidarity through music. It is undoubtedly, however, the first half of the film with its juxtaposition of the raucous underground scene with military brutality on the streets that truly captivates. Winner of last year´s Santiago In-Edit documentary festival, this is an intriguing film for anyone with rooted interests in Chilean music.

Electrodomésticos: El Frio Misterio

Directed by Sergio Castro San Martin

On limited release

http://electrodomesticos.promedia.cl/

Cumbia my lord (and Chorizo Salvaje)

More cumbia rhythms recently with Chorizo Salvaje, one of the numerous Santiago-based bands that make up the nueva cumbia rock chilena scene which is thriving in Santiago these days. The afro-cumbia rhythms are heavy and the demon horn section gives the sound a brooding menace which, laced with the cumbia percussion that energises the whole thing makes for a pretty raw sound. As with all these bands, Chorizo Salvaje get a lively crowd and it's good, slightly dark, party vibes.

They are very bass and percussion driven, with fat horn melodies, with elements of other musical forms from gitana through to salsa. One of the most noticeable things about them is the regularity with which the band members change roles in the band. For example the bass player takes over on percussion in some tunes, while the trumpeter gets on the mike and starts bellowing. There are two main singers, male and female, and they offer very different styles: the guy is more like an MC and riles the crowd much more while the girl has a voice that goes low in a bassy baritone or high in sweet harmony. Her voice is not for everyone but there's no denying she's got a pair of lungs.

While not my favourite local band from this particular scene (that would be Conmoción or La Mano Ajena), Chorizo Salvaje is definitely worth checking out and provide yet more evidence of the vibrant music scene in which Santiago revels. The underground cumbia scene in particular is a key part of the city's alternative culture with hugely popular bands whose main source of income comes from playing live, meaning that there are gigs all the time.

Cumbia originated in Colombia through the integration of musical influences of African slaves with indigenous Indians. Its African roots can be heard in percussive rhythms and vocal dynamics that owe much to tribal singing. Over many years it has spread all over Latin America and each country has its own distinct style, using different time signatures and instruments, as the traditions of each particular region were introduced. In Chile, cumbia was for a long time performed in a romantic context, with soppy lyrics and corny imagery alienating many young people from the vital ingredients that form its foundation. Yet in the last ten years or so, the likes of Chico Trujillo, Juana Fe and Conmoción have emerged to reclaim cumbia and inject a raucous and passionate energy into a previously staid musical style. It now represents one of Chile's most stimulating forms of cultural expression.

Winter hibernation over

After a hefty break the blog is back on the go with all the key info about the Santiago scene and what makes the city whir. Things have changed since the last entry in the blog around two and a half months ago. Firstly, the winter has passed and we're now into the lovely spring with plenty of sunny and warm weather. It's a good time of year and culturally the city really comes alive with lots of outdoor events and festivals. And of course getting out of the city is always nice but particularly so in spring.

Anyway, this post is just a reawakening of sorts as I get back into the habit of daily blogging. Stay tuned!

Red Fury at the Copa America

La Selección Chilena

The Copa America is proving to be an exciting ride for la selección who face Venezuela on Sunday, which is no doubt going to see Santiago descend into heavy carrete if Chile win. They're the favourites and they're playing some great stuff, fast, offensive, open, but Venezuela look not too bad a team defensively (at least against Brazil they didn't but they let in three against Paraguay). There's already a heady sense of anticipation about Sunday's game, it's the opponent they wanted, it's the weekend, and a semi-final place is at stake.

I don't follow any Chilean club but I'm a big fan of la selección. As in the World Cup last year, they have been good entertainment and they rely on a rapid passing game that sees the attacking players constantly moving in order to find space. They deservedly won their group, being probably the best team of the initial stages of the tournament and setting off some pretty raucous festivities in streets. Like last year, thousands of fans went to Plaza Italia to get boisterously merry before los guanacos sent them on their way. Not a good time of year to be getting a soaking from water cannon, that's for sure.

Thousands of Chilean fans have made their way the short distance over the border into Mendoza in Argentina and have more or less colonised the city, where Chile played all their group games. The news has constantly shown traffic jams at the snowy border crossing in the mountains with the fans all dancing about for the cameras. The success of the national team never fails to bring out the flags and the celebrations, not to mention the pisco.

Sanchez celebrates his goal against Uruguay

I didn't get to watch all the games in their entirety because I was stuck at work in the evenings but as I work in the centre I was fully aware when Chile scored against both Uruguay and a few days later against Peru. From my vantage point on the sixth floor in Paseo Huerfanos, the goals set off a collective roar that echoed throughout the entire city. People run out onto their balconys to shout and the night descends into a cacophony of car horns and plastic bugles.

After the game against Peru a couple of days ago I headed home on my normal route through Plaza de Armas, where my street begins (although I live about a mile further down the road), and which is like little-Lima owing to all the Peruvians in this area. With the general antipathy that exists between these two countries, couple with the nature of Chile's last minute winner, I was expecting to witness some kind of feisty shenanigans but surprisingly it was as quiet as any other night. Slightly disappointed, I headed home guessing that Tuesdays are probably not the best nights for agro in these parts.

Anyway, here's hoping the boys can make it to the semis on Sunday even though I will be out of the country for those games and the final, and will be both delighted and furious if they make the final. The likes of Alexis Sanchez, Jorge Valdivia, Arturo Vidal and Waldo Ponce have had a strong tournament so far and they have to fancy their chances against Venezuela. Then it'll probably be Brazil in the semi who beat them 7-1 in the last Copa America. Ho Hum.

Vidal holds of ugly bald Uruguayan defender

Fight The Power

And the spirit is lifted as news arrives that the student movement is getting some international support from none other than Public Enemy who have discounted student tickets for their gig at Teatro Caupolican on 24th July. Reducing prices by 30% to those who carry national student cards, it is the first time that an international artist has shown solidarity with the protesters campaigning for a fairer education system.

'If young people are protesting for a better education, it's something that must be respected' Chuck D was quoted as saying in La Tercera. The news guarantees Public Enemy a cracking welcome in what will be their first ever appearance in Chile. Great as well that at least some musicians can grow old without selling out their principles. And if arguably the most influential hip hop group of all time can support the youth of Chile, surely all big name musicians who visit the country should be able to. It is certainly an opportunity for artists to show their social conscience.

Unfortunately I will miss the gig as I will be back in England for a few weeks but no doubt it will be a pulsating night of blood and fire. In the meantime here's a couple of Public Enemy videos to celebrate their gesture... Black Steel In The Hour Of Chaos and, of course, Fight The Power...

Ecological Community

On Saturday's trip to Peñalolen I also took in la communidad ecologica, Santiago's answer to those communes set up to provide an alternative and sustainable way of living. It's a nice place, on the outskirts of the city at the foot of the cordillera and is basically an association of people who have chosen to live in an ecologically efficient way. The Ecological Community of Peñalolen was founded some thirty years ago and, as such, a number of its residents have spent a significant period living there, and the place has been able to develop into a healthy and functional community.

Having been established for a relatively long period of time, it now appears to be a thriving and renowned sector of Santiaguino life. The buildings differ in size, style and material. Some are large houses made of wood while others are more like huts made out of dried earth. A pleasant stroll round the site reveals it to be a place that has clearly developed its own identity and become self-supporting. There are artesanal shops selling crafts, clothes and local produce, metal and wood workshops, restaurants, a theatre-cum-cultural centre, community halls, a bar with good live music and plenty of other things. It is a fully-functioning community and is a fine example of what can be achieved when people work together.

I hadn't been up to these eastern outskirts of Santiago for a few months and I'd forgotten about what for me is the most striking thing about this part of the city: namely the level of tranquility that exists here. You may be able to see the sprawling city below you but there is a stillness in the air, the scents are fresh, and the most intrusive sounds are the birds. I find it remarkable that you can still be in the city but feel so disconnected and it is yet another example of one of the best aspects of Santiago life: the ease with which you can escape the city. With the Andes looming over you, it's a fine spot to visit on a chilled out afternoon.

Having said all that, there is still an element of middle class smugness prevailing here that is so common in London. I particularly liked the car park for the restaurant where a number of 4X4s awaited their owners, who are obviously ignorant to the contradiction. It took me back to Stoke Newington and the self-rightousness of some of its inhabitants. At least they suffer from those people here in Chile as well.

A perusal of the website shows that this is a community that takes an active role in many aspects of Chilean and Santiaguino issues and is seemingly committed to following the environmental path. I hope to head back over to Peñalolen some time soon as I feel at peace over there. You can get there by bus from Grecia Metro although I don't remember the number.

These photos aren't particularly good but I didn't have my camera the other day and at least they give an idea of the different architectural styles of the community.

Villa Grimaldi

I took a trip out to Peñalolen a couple of days ago to check out a new part of the city and in particular El Parque de la Paz, previously known as Villa Grimaldi. This was the principal detention centre in Santiago under the military dictatorship but is today a memorial to the 204 victims who were killed or 'disappeared' here and the thousands more who were tortured.

Villa Grimaldi was originally a large property belonging to a wealthy family whose daughter was arrested following the coup and subsequently released after the family handed the property over to the military. It was then converted into a brutal centre of interrogation and torture. A huge number of people passed through its gates to face the brutality of the regime. The majority of the buildings were torn down in an attempt to destroy evidence of the terrible cruelty that had taken place there. Here is a quote from a survivor, taken from the Rettig Commision report in 1991 that investigated the crimes of the dictatorship:

'The day begins with a breakfast of boiling tea in a small metal container and half a bread. Lunch is at midday, soup with potato skins floating around in it and pieces of carrots. Sometimes we eat the agents' leftovers, with olive pits, bits of fish and fishbones mixed in with it. Almost impossible to swallow. The screams and moans take your appetite away. But we're forced to do it. Meanwhile, they never stop calling people to the "parrilla" (the "grill" torture method), to endless interrogations... It is a world of contrasts. Guards play the guitar to the sound of the wailing, while in a corner, lying on the floor, Manuel Diaz, alias "El Tano" is dying, little by little...'

names of victims at Villa Grimaldi

So I took the bus through the peaceful suburbs of La Reina and Peñalolen to this unassuming and peaceful corner of the city at the foot of the mountains, a pretty part of Santiago that bears no sign of the suffering and brutality that once occurred here. Upon arrival, it is difficult to associate the tranquility and even charm of Villa Grimaldi with its past horrors. On a warm and sunny winter's afternoon, with the beautiful snow-capped Santiago cordillera looming over, I walked through the gates and walked around the estate. There is a swimming pool, empty, and a fountain, turned off. In the middle of the large courtyard that constitutes the villa, there is a stunning tree, it's base spread in a huge ring with a great number of trunks leading off in different directions. The other trees, the names of which I don't know, are full of small bright green parrots making an absolute racket. I wondered if it was like this back then, and if so, would the fresh air, imposing mountain, and squawks of the birds acted as a source of hope for the prisoners or would it have heightened their despair, having such natural beauty so close but unreachable.

entrance to Villa Grimaldi

El Parque de la Paz is smaller than I was expecting but it has maintained those parts that weren't demolished by the military rulers. There are signs that mark the sites of the cells, and a large memorial at the far end covered in the names of the disappeared. An outdoor auditorium fills a large part of the courtyard, as these days lectures, workshops and other public events are held here, another step in the rehabilitation of Chile from its darkest days. 

I didn't stay for a very long time as it is not a large place and the small museum part was closed. But it was a powerful reminder of the system of terror and oppression that was in place here in Chile within living memory. It is certainly an important place to visit in order to learn more about those times.


Here's the website: http://www.villagrimaldi.cl/


To get to Villa Grimaldi, take buses 513 or DO9 from Plaza Egaña metro station.

Ganja Bonanza

182 marijuana plants found at General Pinochet's ex-summer holiday home, a grand estate at Los Boldos? This place was supposedly an extravagant resort-style retreat in the countryside, laden with plush luxuries, but these days has fallen into a sorry state of disrepair, as is if nobody wants to claim it for shame that such a bloody murderer was able to see out his final days bathing in the warm sun and eating fruit from his orchard.

The dictator's ashes were spread here and it seems to me there's a kind of sweet irony in the fact that the very same land has since producing copious amounts of herb. Can't imagine he'd be too pleased if he knew that.

Anyway, I reckon the government should take this place over and convert it into an activities centre for disadvantaged kids from Santiago. They won't of course but it'd be a fine image of the supposed new Chile.

Here's the link to The Guardian's article:

http://www.guardian.co.uk/world/2011/jul/07/chile-pinochet?INTCMP=SRCH

The Clan

Tucked away in the muralled backstreets of Bellavista lies Bar Clan, hidden away but a good venue to catch some great local live music, from folk to electro to rock to cumbia to hip hop. The name is short for Clandestino and, as such, there is no sign to mark the place although the music and queue is usually a pretty good sign that it's there. But still, you`ll need to have a rough idea of the address to find it so head for Bombero Nuñez 363.

The place is decked out in some pretty hippy strokes, lumescent designs on the walls and a mellow vibe in the darkness. There's lots of nice little alcoves to sit in and cosy up with whoever and a tree grows from the bar out the back which is a terrace in summer and enclosed in winter. There's a friendly ambience and it's not as much of a piss-up as in Onaciu or the meat market that is Bar Constitución, meaning you can take your girlfriend or date and stilll go to the bathroom reasonably confident that you won't return to a ring of slavering ogres surrounding her.

The entrance takes you into the main bar, where the stage is at, and there's another area at the back which is more chilled out (with the aforementioned tree). It's a pleasant enough layout but the biggest problem with Bar Clan is the location of the stage. The venue is spread of the two rooms in a long rectangle shape. Unfortunately the stage is directly in front of the main bar, meaning that as soon as there are any decent number of people there, the whole thing gets bottlenecked. There's space to the sides but they really ought to have a look at rearranging the place so as to maximise the space. There's little room to dance, and bearing in mind this is Latin America and not the UK, that's a big thing. It's still a good venue although I can't help thinking a financial splurge on changing things around would make it one of the main places in the area.

But the standard of most of the musicians makes up for that more or less and gives a good mix of musical styles. In Bellavista it's probably the most diverse venue and is always worth a gamble if there's not much going on and you're after some tunes. Also, the streets outside are covered in hippy murals and graffiti pieces that give the neighbourhood a rather charming bohemian sheen, in a decrepid and dog shit smeared kind of way.

This week, they've got some experimental hip hop fusion (interesing!), punk surf rock (obviously) and a night of Afro-Latinamerican beats (nice). Here's the link to Bar Clan: www.elclan.cl

Year of The Boomerang

The demo passes along Alameda in front of the presidential palace La Moneda

The biggest demonstration since the end of the dictatorship took place yesterday, with tens of thousands of people, the majority school and university students, taking over the city to march against the education reforms that the Piñera administration is planning to implement. I turned up at Plaza Italia at 10.30 in the morning and wandered around the crowds of schoolkids armed with drums, banners and horns, some in costume, some in facepaint, the damp, cold air thick with the heavy essence of anticipation and carnival noise. Spirits were high, a jubilant atmosphere had taken hold as the collective energy of the masses surged all around.

We were there about an hour before the march began and I managed to get a perch on the partition that divides La Alameda to improve the view. For a good forty minutes vast crowds streamed by on both sides and hundreds of colourful banners dominated the view. It made its way all the way down to the centre and was a total triumph for all involved. Whether this kind of massive show of public dissent will have any affect over the goverment's policy remains to be seen.

I've written a fair bit about the spirit of protest in Chile so this time let's look at the media take on things. Well, unsurprisingly, the tiny spasms of violence that occurred between police and protesters were swiftly picked up on by the mainstream media. In spite of Chile bearing witness to one of the proudest and strongest displays of public solidarity in its history, many networks felt it necessary to focus on the negative. Like in the UK, most TV channels operate as government tools of propaganda and seek to undermine those that oppose and threaten the status quo of the system. Therefore a huge and utterly inspiring demonstration of national fellowship is presented in a negative light wherever possible. It's not surprising but it highlights the bullshit that the media spews from its biased rectum.

Another thing was the dispute over how many souls had turned out to express their contempt for the government's plans to maintain the norm that sees Chile as one of the world's most economically divided countries. Obviously, one route out of this is education which doesn't suit the ruling classes. It was reported that 80,000 attended the protest but other organisations put it at double that number. When you're in such a throng it's virtually impossible to make a reliable estimate of numbers but you can at least get an idea of the scale of things and this was absolutely immense. It is in the authorities interests to downplay the size of things and portray the protesters as in a minority.

The government is getting nervous about the tsunami of dissent and opposition that has been unleashed. This is clear from the announcement made that no more demonstrations will be permitted along La Alameda, Santiago's principal thoroughfare that cuts through the heart of the city and passes La Moneda. It will be interesting to see what the reaction will be of los carabineros should crowds still mass there in order to peacefully observe their right to protest. The military police force is not renowned for its tolerance of such things and it could be that we will once again see peaceful protesters being teargassed, as seen in the documentary Imagenes de una Dictadura, and would support the opinion that rather than a democracy, Chilean society is today living in a post-dictatorship.

Here's a link to the Facebook page of Movimiento Surda, featuring a marvellous gallery of images from a monumental day:

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150247400243872.346843.51829283871

Images of a Dictatorship

As part of the Fidocs documentary festival last week I saw this incredibly heart-moving and utterly mesmerising film about the dictatorship entitled Imagenes de una Dictadura, directed by Patricio Henríquez. The film is made up entirely of footage shot during the period, without any kind of narration, and is without doubt one of the most powerful things I've seen in a very long time.

The images are almost unwatchable at times, and leave the viewer feeling helpless, angry, and stunned and the sheer brutality of the military against its own people. Old women are soaked with high-power water cannon for the crime of coming together to demand information about their disappeared children. Soldiers rush peaceful crowds and batter defenceless men and women. Funeral processions for those killed by the authorities are teargassed after intense military provocation causes disturbances.

The film is shocking but it also highlights the strength of the Chilean people, not through any editing tricks or construed narrative, but through simply recording events as they took place. This was a truly turbulent time yet the people maintained their dignity and didn't shy away from the task at hand. Of course, the fear that the dictatorship instilled in the population was deep and provided a strong deterrent from militancy or public dissent. But, as this film shows, there was a courageous strength that drove the Chilean people onwards to liberty and a new dawn. It is a truly remarkable piece of film-making.

I saw Imagenes de una Dictadura down at the Museo de la Memoria y los Derechos Humanos (Museum of Memory and Human Rights - http://www.museodelamemoria.cl/), which opened last year and provides a chilling yet fascinating look at Chile during the years 1973-1990. Afterwards I was lucky enough to have a chat with Raúl Cuevas, who filmed most of the images seen in the documentary and has worked freelance for the BBC and ITN back in the UK for many years. He had a genuine interest in my life in Chile, which was nice.

Anyway, here's the film which is on Youtube in its entirety although you have to follow the links to the next part. I cannot recommend it enough to anyone who wants to understand more about what was allowed to happen here.

Rebels with a cause

Great vibes in Parque Forestal a few days ago as thousands of school and university students continued their campaign against education fees with a massive march through the city centre. I caught the march outside Belles Artes Museum and then continued through the park as a carnival atmosphere took hold. Banging drums, waving banners, chanting, dancing and using the only weapons they have, their voices, the youth of Santiago made itself heard. There were many adults as well on the march but really this belongs to the kids and they are certainly going to make themselves heard.

The demonstration that rolled through the park on its way to La Moneda seemed to go on forever as most schools in Santiago affected by the new government proposals had taken the day off in order to protest. Every time I looked back, the river of people stretched all the way to the main road as more and more students came into view, waving all kinds of protest material from massive banners that had obviously been painstakingly created to scraps of paper with anti-government slogans.

I walked with them in spite of being unaffected myself by the proposed changes. Having missed the protests in the UK against the elitist reformation of the education system, I was keen to show my solidarity here. It was a strong moment of people coming together, made stronger still by the tender ages of the majority of the demonstrators. The air was filled with passionate cries of the youth and highly-charged beats from the legions of drummers who energised the masses.

I didn't make it down to La Moneda as I'm a busy man but unsurprisingly it kicked off with a certain section of people and los Carabineros but not before an absolutely sensational re-enactment of Thriller, involving hundreds of Chilean students. I'd seen loads of these guys dressed up as zombies in the park but had been unaware of their intentions, assuming instead that it was some sort of 'look the government is turning us into the living dead'-type thing. Shit, had I known that downtown Santiago was going to witness such a spectacle I wouldn't have missed it for the world. Here it is:

This march last Thursday followed on from a march the previous Thursday (which I missed due to being in the south) and there is another scheduled for this coming Thursday. The spirit of public dissent is massively alive in this country. I put it down to the years of dictatorship oppression that prohibited large-scale manifestations and suppressed the masses. The silver lining of that dark period is the legacy of self-expression and public solidarity that was born from its shadows.

Loreto

The main drag of Bellavista is Pino Nono (if you're under twenty and like reggaeton) of Calle Constitución (if you're not). This is where most of the bars and restaurants are and, as a result, it's where most newcomers to Santiago head for a drink. Pio Nono is packed out with students, tourists and drunks drinking in the street or in the many gaudy bars that blast out heavy metal or cheesy latin beats while hippies sell all kinds of trinkets along the pavement. Parallel is Constitución which has some very nice restaurants and decent bars and is more upmarket. Anyway, everyone knows about this area and it's hardly Santiago Underground so let's move on.

My reason for bringing this up is that, while this is the well-known part of Bellavista, the back streets are far more interesting and make up one of the true eclectic barrios of the city. A mixture of grand old villas, ramshackle warehouses, colourful terraces and some decent bars and restaurants tucked away, the area is decorated in a thick coat of street art, both good and bad, that further characterises the place and gives it a warm charm. During the day that is, at night it can be a bit sketchy with drunken wankers.

One of the main streets in this part of Bellavista is Loreto, which has a bunch of stuff to check out. If you cross the bridge near Belles Artes Museum you arrive at the bottom of Loreto which cuts and arches through Bellavista and ends up near the foot of San Cristobal. There are interesting pieces of graffiti all along the street (some pretty awful ones as well) and the mix of buildings, old and new, grand and humble, swanky and dilapidated, give it a nice varied flavour.

As far as places to go for something to eat or drink go, the first place of any note that you pass heading from the river is Toro, a Spanish-style resto-bar that is apparently down with the media celebrity crowd (I just have friends' words to vouch for that as I don't really recognise these people) and was very nice the only time I ate there, when I had a very good cerviche. I've been there just for a drink a few times as well and I like it's scruffy low-key vibe.

On the bend is the Fonda Permanente, which is this raucous joint that specialises in Cumbia and Pachanga parties. They have lots of live bands who create a wild and impassioned atmosphere which is much closer in spirit to Latin American traditions than other bars and venues round here but is admittedly not always to everyone's taste.

A bit further along, there are two of Bellavista's main late night venues, Onaciu and Loreto. Onaciu is in this old house and gets packed out at about 2am, has live bands earlier in the night, and DJs who seem to always play exactly the same songs (popular rock and electro mainly : it's difficult to go out in Bellavista without hearing Girls and Boys by Blur at least once over the course of the night). Anyway, it's an Ok place of you like going out till late and the building is pretty cool in its rickety old way.

Opposite is Loreto, which is cooler and seems like more of a club than a bar. A lot of hipsters hang out but again there's nothing particularly special other than live bands, DJs who at least mix it up a bit more than Onaciu but prices are similar. I've usually had a few drinks by the time I arrive at one of these places so it doesn't really bother me which I go to. It depends on who I'm with really.

There's also an 'after' (late night not-entirely-legal drinking venue) just before you reach the bend in the road which if you're pissed and want to keep going until seven or eight in the morning gives you an option although it's not always open. It's in this crappy and dirty old warehouse place with filthy toilets but by this stage of the night it's unlikely that'll bother you. Women generally get in free and blokes pay although that should come with a 'cover' (drink). It can be a shit place or an Ok place to keep drinking depending on various factors: how drunk you are, how drunk the other people are, if you're with mates or girlfriend and so on. At least it's somewhere to go but don't expect to do much the next day.

So you get to end of Calle Loreto and it hits the bottom of San Cristobal on another typical Bellavista street, more shabby but colourful buildings, more street art, more grand old mansions. So there you go. At night it's a more tucked away but very popular and more local place to go out, and by day it makes an interesting neck of the woods to have a stroll around. There's a nice sense of charm, in a run-down sort of way.

I also met this cat on my travels researching this blog. It seemed to live in this corner shop and went by the imaginative name of Kitty. It had an incredible face and was very friendly, climbing up on me as soon as I showed it just a bit of attention. The floozy.

Wildlife of Chile # 7 - a series of stunning photos capturing the rich diversity of fauna in this unique and beautiful Andean land

Wildlife of Chile # 6 - a series of stunning photos capturing the rich diversity of fauna in this unique and beautiful Andean land

Viva La Vega

I like getting my fruit and vegetables from La Vega. It's a marvellous wonder of a place in a massive old warehouse with bright and fresh fruit and veg stacked to the rafters and it's bloody cheap as well. The supermarkets are a joke for buying this kind of thing, much more expensive than I was expecting and also the fresh produce is pretty tasteless. La Vega is sometimes less than half price so well worth heading over. It's also a much truer representation of Chile and the city in general. Supermarkets are a relatively new phenomenon whereas this place is an institution. Anyway, I won't waffle too much as I wrote this piece for Revolver so you can learn some more about a great part of the Santiaguino lifestyle:

 http://www.santiagomagazine.cl/living/00777-no-fear-or-loathing-la-vega

There are some more photos here as well, taken by Katie David. Nice photos I think you'll agree of a place that gives me a sense of well-being and peace.

Berries

Piles

Fishies

Chilis

Carrots

Cheap apples

Cheap tomatoes that kids love

Weird lynched effigy type thing

Wildlife of Chile # 5 - a series of stunning photos capturing the rich diversity of fauna in this unique and beautiful Andean land

Wildlife of Chile # 4 - a series of stunning photos capturing the rich diversity of fauna in this unique and beautiful Andean land

Letting off steam

The volcano that's booming away has me captivated and I reckon it's certainly worth heading down south to try and catch a look. This is my ambition for the coming week so watch this space. I was in this part of Chile and Argentina in February, when it was hot, and I can attest to the region's beauty. Hopefully I'll manage to post some of my own photos of this incredible natural spectacle but in the meantime I've compiled some photo galleries from various media sources. Mother Nature is kicking arse.

La Tercera (Chile)
http://www.latercera.com/multimedia/galeria/2011/06/683-28996-7-impactantes-imagenes-de-la-erupcion-del-volcan-puyehuecordon-caulle.shtml

El Mercurio (Chile)
http://www.emol.com/videos/actualidad/indexSub.asp?id_emol=8112

The Guardian (UK)
http://www.guardian.co.uk/world/gallery/2011/jun/05/chile-volcano-eruption-in-pictures?INTCMP=SRCH#/?picture=375383037&index=14

El Pais (Spain)
http://www.elpais.com/fotogaleria/erupcion/Puyehue/elpgal/20110606elpepuint_2/Zes/1

Life 
http://www.life.com/gallery/61201/image/ugc1234371#index/6

National Geographic
http://news.nationalgeographic.com/news/2011/06/pictures/110606-chile-volcano-lightning-science-ash-eruption/

BBC
http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-latin-america-13664429

CBS 
http://www.cbsnews.com/2300-202_162-10008038.html?tag=page

Wildlife of Chile # 3 - a series of stunning photos capturing the rich diversity of fauna in this unique and beautiful Andean land

Light & Fluffy

With the vibe of a hip European independent art gallery, Cian Plataforma Cultural in Bellavista is an exhibition space that provides a creative and commercial portal for many Chilean contemporary artists and features works that display a wide range of original ideas and techniques. A number of artists exhibit and sell their works here and it is a good place to start to get to grips with the contemporary arts scene in the city. 

Cian is a large and bright space that acts as a gallery, workshop, cultural centre, shop and cafe. The walls are covered in many lovely paintings in which the talent and originality of ideas is plainly evident through the many styles and concepts utilised by the artists. While these line the walls, there are tables packed with prints of Chilean paintings for sale that sum up the diversity of the Chilean contemporary art movement. There are also lots of interesting sculptures and models, with the horse in a suit that greets you at the entrance particularly odd.

The importance of places such as Cian cannot be underestimated as they offer an outlet for creative expression, not to mention the possibility of actually making money out of your talent, for young artists who may not otherwise have the opportunity to showcase their work. It is certainly worth checking out regardless of whether or not contemporary art floats your boat. Sometimes I come here just to have a hot chocolate and use the wi-fi, as there is a lovely mellow vibe that makes a welcome escape from the city and is conducive to the creative spirit. 

In the heart of Bellavista, this is a decent spot that is a good example of the direction of the modern Santiago, a city that today has firmly established its own artistic and creative identity. There are other places like this of which I shall write about in due course. Here's the website:

http://cian.cl/index.php

Who killed Pablo Neruda?

Allende and Neruda

An investigation is to be opened into the death of Pablo Neruda, one of Latin America´s greatest ever poets. Neruda died just twelve days after the military coup of 1973 which saw his close friend, President Salvador Allende, die in the violent bombardment and storming of the Presidential Palace La Moneda. As a communist and committed supporter of the Popular Unity government of Allende, Neruda would have been a prominent opponent of the regime and in the short time between the coup and his death he was openly critical of what was occurring in his beloved Chile. It has been alleged that poison was injected into his stomach as he lay in hospital with cancer.

As one of the greatest figures in Chilean history, alongside the likes of O'Higgins, Prat and Allende, any findings of foul play over Neruda's death, certainly within the realms of possibility, would be likely to trigger a wave of emotion. But it doesn't come as much of a surprise that many people believe he was murdered. The military dictatorship wiped out vast numbers of people who were supporters of the Popular Unity or other leftist political parties, regardless of their stature. Journalists, priests, academics, musicians (including, of course, Victor Jara), and other people in high profile positions were among those disappeared. But Neruda's international fame and recognition thanks to decades of poems culminating in the Nobel Prize in 1973 would have made it impossible for the forces of Pinochet to imprison him or murder him. It would have provoked an international outcry.

Although Neruda was terminally ill with cancer, he had been a strong and visible supporter of Allende's government. His presence had galvanised many Chileans in support of Allende and raised the Popular Unity's profile internationally. Neruda was in poor health but witnesses have claimed that the day before his death he was in good spirits and seemed like he was still holding off the cancer. His death from heart failure came suddenly.

It is absolutely certain that Neruda's death would have been in the best interests of the military junta which had just grasped control of the country and was governing with an unrelenting iron fist. The poet's praise of such Latin American leftist heroes such as Fidel Castro, Che Guevara and Allende made him an enemy of the military, now operating as a totalitarian regime that showed no compassion towards its opponents. As Neruda lay in hospital, it would have been simple for military agents to end his life and make it seem like natural causes.

In the ensuing years, Pinochet and his minions did their best to undermine the influence of Neruda and erase his legacy. The concerted effort made by the Pinochet forces certainly suggests that, had he lived, he would have been a serious adversary. History shows us that the dictatorship's answer to such matters was swift and merciless. An investigation into the poet's death is definitely warranted.

Here is the Guardian's report:

http://www.guardian.co.uk/world/2011/jun/01/chile-pinochet-murder-pablo-neruda

And from the Chilean newspaper La Tercera (in Spanish):

http://www.latercera.com/noticia/nacional/2011/06/680-370235-9-ministro-carroza-acepta-investigar-la-muerte-de-pablo-neruda.shtml

Japanese Anime Chilean Style

I went down to La Universidad Catolica the other day for the first time. It's a lovely grand old building, situated right in the heart of Santiago, and the most prestigious university in Chile. While I'm sure they would have highly appreciated the imparting of my pearls of wisdom, that wasn't why I was there. I actually went to watch Belleville Rendezvous at the Micro Cine (a great little cinema open to the general public where they have regular film seasons and admission for a luca) but I got the times wrong and ended up watching another animated film about Tutankhamen and the gods of ancient Egypt.

On the way out I noticed there was an exhibition of Chilean Manga: a concept that I had been unaware of until that moment. This was the winners of a nationwide competition held to unearth Chile's finest Manga artists. I knew Manga was popular from the various Japanese-anime shops scattered around the city and from last year when I tried to go to a Manga convention at Estación Mapocho and encountered the mother of all queues. But I'd assumed it was all imported artwork so it was interesting to see the work of national artists.

The drawings and paintings followed classic Manga themes and imagery. There were countryside samurai warriors with huge swords and that zig zag hair so beloved by the genre: kinky young woman in cyber-slut outfits: cuddly but somewhat eerie-looking inflated animal caricatures: innocent school kids walking through dark and menacing landscapes: and so on.

I found the exhibition very interesting and would like to check out more Chilean Manga. I haven't been able to find on the internet most of the images I saw but there are a couple and there are also some links to portals if you're keen.

http://www.banzaistudio.cl/

http://kortachurros-caf.blogspot.com/2008/10/existe-el-manga-chileno-carta-abierta.html

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Anidachi-adventures-Manga-Chileno/133823109999446?sk=wall

Teenage angst has paid off well

More or less the first gig I went to in Santiago (with the exception of this one manic cumbia party) was Miss Garrison in Cine Arte Alameda some time last year. It was a pretty raucous affair, great energy, decent tunes and a heady crowd lapping it up. Miss Garrison are an electro-punk three piece, with elements of hip hop and experimental sounds in their palette, who have so far released just one album but have a strong following. They are in the vain of bands like Cansai de Ser Sexy (CSS in the UK) and the Chilean band Pánico. They are also reminiscent of heroes-of-my-youth Senser, due to the intensity of their sound and the fusion of heavy guitars with sound effects and hip hop beats. They also sing in a mix of Spanish and English.

The combustible nature of their onstage performances is encapsulated in the frenetic presence of the female singer and drummer Francisca Straube, who seems to be a bit of a star on the alternative circuit. She's definitely got the punk spirit and brings a lot of charisma to the band. The other two male members, on riot guitar and effects-laden bass, bring their own styles to things and the result is a heavily energetic sonic boom of angst.

Miss Garrison opened for Crystal Castles in Chile and a quick check on Google shows me they recently embarked on their first European tour. So it looks like they could be on the up. If the band's popularity in Santiago is anything to go by, then it looks good. For not only is it a good band, it is also a cool band. And obviously that's very important in the music biz. Anyway, I've added a few youtube videos and the myspace if you're interested in checking them out some more.

http://www.myspace.com/grupomissgarrison

Industrial Waste

Here are some pretty natty photos of the Santiago urban jungle that, whilst conveying a strong sense of industrial decay, are rather striking and contain the essence of what I am trying to achieve with this blog: namely portray the city's dark heart and its leftfield cultural identity. This is the work of Chilean photographer Catalina de la Cruz. She says of her work:

'Moving the capacity to feel some kind of fantastic, vital and unnameable pleasure, this other urban landscape unfurls through subtle details, elements decontextualised from their function and reason: images that stay suspended in me like experiences inter-sensory. Urban landscape always ephemeral, always mutating, always being determined randomly, and the infinite relation of its brief parts and fragments, the emotions and senses that are granted to every spectator´.

So you can make of that what you will. Here are the photos.