Red Fury at the Copa America

La Selección Chilena

The Copa America is proving to be an exciting ride for la selección who face Venezuela on Sunday, which is no doubt going to see Santiago descend into heavy carrete if Chile win. They're the favourites and they're playing some great stuff, fast, offensive, open, but Venezuela look not too bad a team defensively (at least against Brazil they didn't but they let in three against Paraguay). There's already a heady sense of anticipation about Sunday's game, it's the opponent they wanted, it's the weekend, and a semi-final place is at stake.

I don't follow any Chilean club but I'm a big fan of la selección. As in the World Cup last year, they have been good entertainment and they rely on a rapid passing game that sees the attacking players constantly moving in order to find space. They deservedly won their group, being probably the best team of the initial stages of the tournament and setting off some pretty raucous festivities in streets. Like last year, thousands of fans went to Plaza Italia to get boisterously merry before los guanacos sent them on their way. Not a good time of year to be getting a soaking from water cannon, that's for sure.

Thousands of Chilean fans have made their way the short distance over the border into Mendoza in Argentina and have more or less colonised the city, where Chile played all their group games. The news has constantly shown traffic jams at the snowy border crossing in the mountains with the fans all dancing about for the cameras. The success of the national team never fails to bring out the flags and the celebrations, not to mention the pisco.

Sanchez celebrates his goal against Uruguay

I didn't get to watch all the games in their entirety because I was stuck at work in the evenings but as I work in the centre I was fully aware when Chile scored against both Uruguay and a few days later against Peru. From my vantage point on the sixth floor in Paseo Huerfanos, the goals set off a collective roar that echoed throughout the entire city. People run out onto their balconys to shout and the night descends into a cacophony of car horns and plastic bugles.

After the game against Peru a couple of days ago I headed home on my normal route through Plaza de Armas, where my street begins (although I live about a mile further down the road), and which is like little-Lima owing to all the Peruvians in this area. With the general antipathy that exists between these two countries, couple with the nature of Chile's last minute winner, I was expecting to witness some kind of feisty shenanigans but surprisingly it was as quiet as any other night. Slightly disappointed, I headed home guessing that Tuesdays are probably not the best nights for agro in these parts.

Anyway, here's hoping the boys can make it to the semis on Sunday even though I will be out of the country for those games and the final, and will be both delighted and furious if they make the final. The likes of Alexis Sanchez, Jorge Valdivia, Arturo Vidal and Waldo Ponce have had a strong tournament so far and they have to fancy their chances against Venezuela. Then it'll probably be Brazil in the semi who beat them 7-1 in the last Copa America. Ho Hum.

Vidal holds of ugly bald Uruguayan defender

Fight The Power

And the spirit is lifted as news arrives that the student movement is getting some international support from none other than Public Enemy who have discounted student tickets for their gig at Teatro Caupolican on 24th July. Reducing prices by 30% to those who carry national student cards, it is the first time that an international artist has shown solidarity with the protesters campaigning for a fairer education system.

'If young people are protesting for a better education, it's something that must be respected' Chuck D was quoted as saying in La Tercera. The news guarantees Public Enemy a cracking welcome in what will be their first ever appearance in Chile. Great as well that at least some musicians can grow old without selling out their principles. And if arguably the most influential hip hop group of all time can support the youth of Chile, surely all big name musicians who visit the country should be able to. It is certainly an opportunity for artists to show their social conscience.

Unfortunately I will miss the gig as I will be back in England for a few weeks but no doubt it will be a pulsating night of blood and fire. In the meantime here's a couple of Public Enemy videos to celebrate their gesture... Black Steel In The Hour Of Chaos and, of course, Fight The Power...

Ecological Community

On Saturday's trip to Peñalolen I also took in la communidad ecologica, Santiago's answer to those communes set up to provide an alternative and sustainable way of living. It's a nice place, on the outskirts of the city at the foot of the cordillera and is basically an association of people who have chosen to live in an ecologically efficient way. The Ecological Community of Peñalolen was founded some thirty years ago and, as such, a number of its residents have spent a significant period living there, and the place has been able to develop into a healthy and functional community.

Having been established for a relatively long period of time, it now appears to be a thriving and renowned sector of Santiaguino life. The buildings differ in size, style and material. Some are large houses made of wood while others are more like huts made out of dried earth. A pleasant stroll round the site reveals it to be a place that has clearly developed its own identity and become self-supporting. There are artesanal shops selling crafts, clothes and local produce, metal and wood workshops, restaurants, a theatre-cum-cultural centre, community halls, a bar with good live music and plenty of other things. It is a fully-functioning community and is a fine example of what can be achieved when people work together.

I hadn't been up to these eastern outskirts of Santiago for a few months and I'd forgotten about what for me is the most striking thing about this part of the city: namely the level of tranquility that exists here. You may be able to see the sprawling city below you but there is a stillness in the air, the scents are fresh, and the most intrusive sounds are the birds. I find it remarkable that you can still be in the city but feel so disconnected and it is yet another example of one of the best aspects of Santiago life: the ease with which you can escape the city. With the Andes looming over you, it's a fine spot to visit on a chilled out afternoon.

Having said all that, there is still an element of middle class smugness prevailing here that is so common in London. I particularly liked the car park for the restaurant where a number of 4X4s awaited their owners, who are obviously ignorant to the contradiction. It took me back to Stoke Newington and the self-rightousness of some of its inhabitants. At least they suffer from those people here in Chile as well.

A perusal of the website shows that this is a community that takes an active role in many aspects of Chilean and Santiaguino issues and is seemingly committed to following the environmental path. I hope to head back over to Peñalolen some time soon as I feel at peace over there. You can get there by bus from Grecia Metro although I don't remember the number.

These photos aren't particularly good but I didn't have my camera the other day and at least they give an idea of the different architectural styles of the community.

Villa Grimaldi

I took a trip out to Peñalolen a couple of days ago to check out a new part of the city and in particular El Parque de la Paz, previously known as Villa Grimaldi. This was the principal detention centre in Santiago under the military dictatorship but is today a memorial to the 204 victims who were killed or 'disappeared' here and the thousands more who were tortured.

Villa Grimaldi was originally a large property belonging to a wealthy family whose daughter was arrested following the coup and subsequently released after the family handed the property over to the military. It was then converted into a brutal centre of interrogation and torture. A huge number of people passed through its gates to face the brutality of the regime. The majority of the buildings were torn down in an attempt to destroy evidence of the terrible cruelty that had taken place there. Here is a quote from a survivor, taken from the Rettig Commision report in 1991 that investigated the crimes of the dictatorship:

'The day begins with a breakfast of boiling tea in a small metal container and half a bread. Lunch is at midday, soup with potato skins floating around in it and pieces of carrots. Sometimes we eat the agents' leftovers, with olive pits, bits of fish and fishbones mixed in with it. Almost impossible to swallow. The screams and moans take your appetite away. But we're forced to do it. Meanwhile, they never stop calling people to the "parrilla" (the "grill" torture method), to endless interrogations... It is a world of contrasts. Guards play the guitar to the sound of the wailing, while in a corner, lying on the floor, Manuel Diaz, alias "El Tano" is dying, little by little...'

names of victims at Villa Grimaldi

So I took the bus through the peaceful suburbs of La Reina and Peñalolen to this unassuming and peaceful corner of the city at the foot of the mountains, a pretty part of Santiago that bears no sign of the suffering and brutality that once occurred here. Upon arrival, it is difficult to associate the tranquility and even charm of Villa Grimaldi with its past horrors. On a warm and sunny winter's afternoon, with the beautiful snow-capped Santiago cordillera looming over, I walked through the gates and walked around the estate. There is a swimming pool, empty, and a fountain, turned off. In the middle of the large courtyard that constitutes the villa, there is a stunning tree, it's base spread in a huge ring with a great number of trunks leading off in different directions. The other trees, the names of which I don't know, are full of small bright green parrots making an absolute racket. I wondered if it was like this back then, and if so, would the fresh air, imposing mountain, and squawks of the birds acted as a source of hope for the prisoners or would it have heightened their despair, having such natural beauty so close but unreachable.

entrance to Villa Grimaldi

El Parque de la Paz is smaller than I was expecting but it has maintained those parts that weren't demolished by the military rulers. There are signs that mark the sites of the cells, and a large memorial at the far end covered in the names of the disappeared. An outdoor auditorium fills a large part of the courtyard, as these days lectures, workshops and other public events are held here, another step in the rehabilitation of Chile from its darkest days. 

I didn't stay for a very long time as it is not a large place and the small museum part was closed. But it was a powerful reminder of the system of terror and oppression that was in place here in Chile within living memory. It is certainly an important place to visit in order to learn more about those times.


Here's the website: http://www.villagrimaldi.cl/


To get to Villa Grimaldi, take buses 513 or DO9 from Plaza Egaña metro station.

Ganja Bonanza

182 marijuana plants found at General Pinochet's ex-summer holiday home, a grand estate at Los Boldos? This place was supposedly an extravagant resort-style retreat in the countryside, laden with plush luxuries, but these days has fallen into a sorry state of disrepair, as is if nobody wants to claim it for shame that such a bloody murderer was able to see out his final days bathing in the warm sun and eating fruit from his orchard.

The dictator's ashes were spread here and it seems to me there's a kind of sweet irony in the fact that the very same land has since producing copious amounts of herb. Can't imagine he'd be too pleased if he knew that.

Anyway, I reckon the government should take this place over and convert it into an activities centre for disadvantaged kids from Santiago. They won't of course but it'd be a fine image of the supposed new Chile.

Here's the link to The Guardian's article:

http://www.guardian.co.uk/world/2011/jul/07/chile-pinochet?INTCMP=SRCH

The Clan

Tucked away in the muralled backstreets of Bellavista lies Bar Clan, hidden away but a good venue to catch some great local live music, from folk to electro to rock to cumbia to hip hop. The name is short for Clandestino and, as such, there is no sign to mark the place although the music and queue is usually a pretty good sign that it's there. But still, you`ll need to have a rough idea of the address to find it so head for Bombero Nuñez 363.

The place is decked out in some pretty hippy strokes, lumescent designs on the walls and a mellow vibe in the darkness. There's lots of nice little alcoves to sit in and cosy up with whoever and a tree grows from the bar out the back which is a terrace in summer and enclosed in winter. There's a friendly ambience and it's not as much of a piss-up as in Onaciu or the meat market that is Bar Constitución, meaning you can take your girlfriend or date and stilll go to the bathroom reasonably confident that you won't return to a ring of slavering ogres surrounding her.

The entrance takes you into the main bar, where the stage is at, and there's another area at the back which is more chilled out (with the aforementioned tree). It's a pleasant enough layout but the biggest problem with Bar Clan is the location of the stage. The venue is spread of the two rooms in a long rectangle shape. Unfortunately the stage is directly in front of the main bar, meaning that as soon as there are any decent number of people there, the whole thing gets bottlenecked. There's space to the sides but they really ought to have a look at rearranging the place so as to maximise the space. There's little room to dance, and bearing in mind this is Latin America and not the UK, that's a big thing. It's still a good venue although I can't help thinking a financial splurge on changing things around would make it one of the main places in the area.

But the standard of most of the musicians makes up for that more or less and gives a good mix of musical styles. In Bellavista it's probably the most diverse venue and is always worth a gamble if there's not much going on and you're after some tunes. Also, the streets outside are covered in hippy murals and graffiti pieces that give the neighbourhood a rather charming bohemian sheen, in a decrepid and dog shit smeared kind of way.

This week, they've got some experimental hip hop fusion (interesing!), punk surf rock (obviously) and a night of Afro-Latinamerican beats (nice). Here's the link to Bar Clan: www.elclan.cl

Year of The Boomerang

The demo passes along Alameda in front of the presidential palace La Moneda

The biggest demonstration since the end of the dictatorship took place yesterday, with tens of thousands of people, the majority school and university students, taking over the city to march against the education reforms that the Piñera administration is planning to implement. I turned up at Plaza Italia at 10.30 in the morning and wandered around the crowds of schoolkids armed with drums, banners and horns, some in costume, some in facepaint, the damp, cold air thick with the heavy essence of anticipation and carnival noise. Spirits were high, a jubilant atmosphere had taken hold as the collective energy of the masses surged all around.

We were there about an hour before the march began and I managed to get a perch on the partition that divides La Alameda to improve the view. For a good forty minutes vast crowds streamed by on both sides and hundreds of colourful banners dominated the view. It made its way all the way down to the centre and was a total triumph for all involved. Whether this kind of massive show of public dissent will have any affect over the goverment's policy remains to be seen.

I've written a fair bit about the spirit of protest in Chile so this time let's look at the media take on things. Well, unsurprisingly, the tiny spasms of violence that occurred between police and protesters were swiftly picked up on by the mainstream media. In spite of Chile bearing witness to one of the proudest and strongest displays of public solidarity in its history, many networks felt it necessary to focus on the negative. Like in the UK, most TV channels operate as government tools of propaganda and seek to undermine those that oppose and threaten the status quo of the system. Therefore a huge and utterly inspiring demonstration of national fellowship is presented in a negative light wherever possible. It's not surprising but it highlights the bullshit that the media spews from its biased rectum.

Another thing was the dispute over how many souls had turned out to express their contempt for the government's plans to maintain the norm that sees Chile as one of the world's most economically divided countries. Obviously, one route out of this is education which doesn't suit the ruling classes. It was reported that 80,000 attended the protest but other organisations put it at double that number. When you're in such a throng it's virtually impossible to make a reliable estimate of numbers but you can at least get an idea of the scale of things and this was absolutely immense. It is in the authorities interests to downplay the size of things and portray the protesters as in a minority.

The government is getting nervous about the tsunami of dissent and opposition that has been unleashed. This is clear from the announcement made that no more demonstrations will be permitted along La Alameda, Santiago's principal thoroughfare that cuts through the heart of the city and passes La Moneda. It will be interesting to see what the reaction will be of los carabineros should crowds still mass there in order to peacefully observe their right to protest. The military police force is not renowned for its tolerance of such things and it could be that we will once again see peaceful protesters being teargassed, as seen in the documentary Imagenes de una Dictadura, and would support the opinion that rather than a democracy, Chilean society is today living in a post-dictatorship.

Here's a link to the Facebook page of Movimiento Surda, featuring a marvellous gallery of images from a monumental day:

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150247400243872.346843.51829283871