The Old Town

Santiago is a different world on Sundays as most people get out of the city or spend the day indoors with the family. The streets are much quieter and emptier than on other days, most things are closed including restaurants and bars (as opposed to the popular English Sunday boozing), and, provided you´re in the right spot, there´s a real mellow feel to the place. But it can sometimes be difficult to find a new place to wander around in that aimless and leisurely Sunday style if you´re not too familiar with things and don´t want to take your stroll in San Cristobal or Parque Forestal every weekend. So what else is about?

As I may have written before, more or less my favourite part of Santiago is Barrio Brasil and neighbouring Barrio Yungay. Plaza Brasil is well-known, stages regular weekend events, and has a heady nightlife, but just a few blocks north-west lies Plaza Yungay, a lovely chilled-out place tucked away in the old part of the city. The streets round here still feature the once-grand but now-shabby houses of the old moneyed classes from the early part of the 20th Century, before they headed off to the likes of Las Condes and Vitacura. The colonial architecture, tree-lined cobbled streets, brightly-painted murals and smattering of workshops, cultural centres and local community groups gives this area a strong sense of character and local pride, evident in the attitude and conduct of the residents. Having moved here recently from sterile Providencia, I noticed straight away how many people struck up conversation with me in shops or cafes.

There is, however, a somewhat seedy reputation that attaches itself to this part of the city. I was warned about moving here as it could be dangerous at night, and there are a much higher ratio of botillerias (off-licenses) than in other parts of the city, not to mention the side-alley hotels which have rooms available to rent by the hour. Yet it is easy to avoid this side of things (although I may visit a botilleria of my own free will), and these kinds of claims are generally made by people less familiar with the area. It certainly doesn´t seem to be any worse than, say, living in Hackney or some such part of London. What does set it apart from various London barrios is that it manages to be bohemian without being bourgeoise, and the general charm and tranquility is much more appealing than in other parts of Santiago. In spite of what some people might say, it is round here that I feel most relaxed and at ease.

Owing to its history of earthquakes and then economic 'progress', the majority of 'old' Santiago is these days sadly just a memory, but photos and preserved barrios such as Yungay are testament to the fact that it was once a rather attractive city. It is definitely a place to check out and get to know more and more.